Solved Macbook Pro 15' mid 2010 i7, 8gb ram vs Macbook Pro late 2011 i5, 8gb ram Forum Solved Apple MacBook Pro 13' (April 2010 Onwards Model) Forum Macbook pro 2010 vs 2011/2012 Forum. Macbook pro 13 is not charging - Tech Support Disappointed with the charging power of my new powerbank for my Macbook retina pro 13' - Tech Support Can't find your answer?

A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to 'cam out' (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake 'precision' screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more. Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake 'precision' screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at: 'Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as 'Phillips #00' or 'Torx T5.' These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a 'Size 8' dress.'

In other words, the quality of many 'precision' screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake 'precision' Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a 'precision screwdriver', it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more. The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13' does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB).

I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

Some info here: '1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM' '*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM.'

Our Mid 2010 already had 'the latest EFI' (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant. The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. Adobe flash player for mac os x el capitan.

I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are NOT the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the 'Give the author +30 points' button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore.

My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together.:-) THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added. I am answering a 2 year old post but this is for those who may have the same or similar issue in the future.

When I was putting the battery connector back on that it didn't sit flat against the board before I put pressure on the top of the connecter to press it back into its socket. I then took time to examine the battery connector socket and saw it consisted of long thin vertical pins. I deduced that if the battery connector was not aligned correctly to the pins on the motherboard then it may be very easy to bend one or more of the pins in a way that they wouldn't mate up with the opposing female part on the connector. That sure would cause a battery charging issue. If you feel too much resistance when pressing the connector back into the socket then stop and make sure it is all aligned correctly. I know, not easy with the size, the black connector and black socket.